-written by Rinchen.

Glistening  heads and backs walking through lush green fields set against brown and blue mountains.

Perhaps the aforementioned line is rather romanticized, yet it cannot be denied that Alchi women donning their entire traditional attire adds a sort of enigma to Alchi’s blessed land.

Alchi is a hamlet in the Sham region of Ladakh. Blessed by the Alchi Choskor, ( which is the oldest surviving monastery in Ladakh) the hamlet is mesmerising to say the least. 

What caught my eye this time was that the women of Alchi all donned bog (traditional cape made of brocade) and some also wore tibi (traditional brocade hat) . On asking my relative Abile (granny) from Alchi, I learnt that one of Saspol’s (neighbouring village) Geshes (a very learned monk) adviced the women of Alchi to don their full cultural attire in order to avoid showing disrespect to one of Alchi Choskor’s protectress deities, Dorje Chenmo, while circumambulating the Choskor. While the predominant painting over entrance doors is that of Mahakala, the advice to wear bog and tibi seems to be related to protectress Dorje Chenmo, from what I inferred. Here, it is important to note that Dorje Chenmo is also the guardian deity of Lotsawa Rinpoche Rinchen Zangpo, whose history is connected with Alchi Choskor. 

 Some may ask why there is no such ‘imposition’ on men, and perhaps that is a fair point. On the other hand, one can also say that that’s the men’s bad luck. Because with their capes and hats on, Alchi’s women look beyond regal. If the brocade cape and hat can heighten the stature of every lady, be it a shopkeeper or pedestrian, then why must one always fight a contest. 

Besides, anyone who understands Tibetan-Buddhism understands the co-existence of various realms, or rather the illusion thereof. Anyone who understands Tibetan-Buddhism will also understand that paying respect to a monastery’s deity is the very least one can do when one is reaping the blessings of a monastery. Then again, these thoughts are considered rather ‘traditional’. Yet, seldom do people remember that some traditions rise from ancient knowledge and not just ancient dictums. 

Those who wish to stand in disbelief must remember how Buddhism came to be established in Tibet, Ladakh and neighbouring regions in the first place. Plagued by the spirits reigning during the era of Bon religion, only when Guru Rinpoche (Guru Padmasambhava) subdued them and bound them by oath to protect Buddhism did the region witness the flowering of Dharma. Tibetan Buddhist deities fall under two categories: enlightened deities and worldly deities.

Perhaps we all can take inspiration from Alchi’s women. Instead of awkwardly hanging long scarves and shawls over the shoulder, we should wear boks and tibis while wearing sulma (traditional women’s dress); as they represent the traditional form of our attire. If not everyday, atleast we can start by wearing bogs during events. And those who are looking for an easy going bog style, look no further than Alchi women’s small and comfortable bogs for inspiration.

Wearing clothes of value is believed to bring up one’s lungta (windhorse: inner wind which when high leads to strength and good fortune). Moreover, often koshen (traditional brocade silk) has auspicious symbol designs, with the belief and hope that they will bring good fortune to the wearer. Hence, we should be mindful of the deep rooted symbolism and value behind every aspect of our cultural capital. 

Preserving our culture and traditions is our responsibility. Don’t walk with the flock, look back, look around and learn what has been, what will be and importantly walk with your head held high celebrating the beauty of the culture that is still intact around you.