a reverie?

-Rinchen

To my Abile (granny) the 2 day long Chemrey Angchok Chham (religious masked monastic performance event) was more about tending to guests in her bustling house. She recounts how our ancestral house would be full of guests, mostly relatives from outside Chemrey (our village). Chhang (Ladakhi beer) and traditonal barley and meat assortments would flow in plenty and Abile would be busy organizing rooms and food with the aid of helpers.

When asked about the Chham of Angchok, she remembers little for she’d hardly get to witness them due to the guests. She’d only get to view Chham in other places where she’d be her relatives’ guest in turn; specially in Thiksay. Back then Chham were the highlights of social life. Taking place in major monasteries across different regions of Ladakh, they mark an occasion to witness the entities who guide all in afterlife and ,back then, also a reason to socialize .

In my opinion, they also symbolized occasions for Ladakhi hospitality. Both from my granny’s accounts of our own ancestral house and that of her relatives’ during the events, I can garner how warmly guests were welcomed. It is then no wonder that even today, Ladakhi people shine both in their hospitality and in their ‘dzangs’ (restraint shown in order to not look like freeloaders while at another’s house.)

This year, I was lucky to witness Angchok amidst the public. Before this, whenever I’d witnessed different chhams, I’d always been seated at the special sitting area, where though the seating is comfortable, the view is bland. This year, sitting amidst the public, right in the Chhamra (courtyard where the Chham tales place), in the freezing cold as the snow drifted our way, felt like an ethereal whirlwind.

All the inhabitants of Chemrey and others had come dressed in their best livery. Even the ones who never cared to dress up had put on their best sulma(traditional women’s dress), and yogor(cape with brocade and wool).

What did I learn?

I ask.

But the question has no answer, just like life.

To be, just to be.

And the masked entities did say something I think, though they didn’t speak out loud.

Be not afraid of your own self for that is all there is, and even that is nothing. The masks look scary, but they will help you when the time arrives..and anyway, what is fear, ask. When in doubt, look fear in the eye. Question, don’t shrink. You will realize what you will. And remember the Chham, remember the great entities, for in afterlife besides they, you shall meet no one.